Tips for Inground Swimming Pool Liner Preparation and Installation!
Posted: Friday, March 31, 2006
by Daniel Osko
Bubbas Pools
Do you think that only the pro's can do it? Think again. Although we recommend a professional installer, with the correct tools and care most anyone can install their liner. Just follow the guide below, and you decide. A little work can save you a lot of money!
These tips apply to inground beaded vinyl liners with or without hoppers (deep ends).
Inground Beaded Liners
Preparation:
1) Drain all water from pool. (you may use a sump pump, your filtration system or siphon hose)
2) Remove all hung ladders from liner area. (and any other equipment that may obstruct liner area)
3) Remove all debris from pool and sweep out liner. (we want to keep the old liner reasonably clean)
4) Remove all face plates and gaskets from inside pool area. (i.e. thru-the-wall(s), return(s), lights, etc..)
5) Inspect all face plates, gaskets and hardware for cracks/rips and/or wear. (replace as needed)
6) Temporarily remove old liner by lifting upward to unhook it from the track. (you may want to use it later)
7) Inspect pool base and walls for cracks, holes and depressions. (repair with a sand and mortar mix)
8) Re-tape all wall seams with duct tape. (remove old duct tape first)
9) Sweep entire pool area clean. (must be free of pebbles, rocks, sharp edges and all debris!)
10) Record all measurements. (take depth from liner track to bottom, take widths from inside of walls)
11) Temporarily replace old liner, hook up in spots. (this will protect area until your new liner arrives)
Installation:
1) Temporarily unroll your new liner in a sunny, debris free area. (this will assist liner to stretch later on)
2) Disconnect and plug all water return and feed lines at filter. (usage of duct tape will surfice)
3) Remove at least one skimmer lid and replace with cardboard. (duct tape cardboard to sidewalk)
4) Duct tape any remaining skimmer lids to sidewalk. (we are creating an air tight seal)
5) Seal off any step areas with plywood. (again, duct tape the THREE sides to sidewalk)
6) Insert shop vac hose thru the cardboard skimmer lid. (duct tape well, until sealed)
7) Inspect all duct taped areas. (these must be good seals)
8) Completely remove old liner from pool area. (this can be cut up and folded into smaller sections)
9) Re-inspect pool base. (insure there is no debris, rocks, pebbles or rough areas!)
10) Fold new liner lengthwise. (take note of deep end of pool)
11) Place liner in pool area, retaining both ends. (make sure the deep end is in the deep end!)
12) Carefully unfold liner in pool area. (do not get inside pool, you can do this from outside of pool area)
13) Align liner within pool area, start at shallow end. (do not attach yet, just get the liner close)
14) Attach liner to liner track in the shallow end. (make sure your two corners are perfectly aligned!)
15) Continue attaching liner around entire pool area. (just pull liner taunt, do not stretch or allow bunches)
16) Inspect liner for exact fit. (make sure all corners are fitted correctly, adjustments can be made)
17) Gently brush and tap liner torwards the walls. (this will visually assist you in the final liner setting)
18) Final Setting! Inspect and Adjust liner as needed. (slide liner within tract to gain or lose material)
19) Duct tape liner to the fourth side of plywooded step area. (if applicable)
20) Hook up shop vac to vac hose and turn on. (this will simulate water and suck all air out of liner area)
21) Gently brush and tap liner around entire perimeter torwards the walls. (this will remove all wrinkles)
22) Inspect liner for wrinkles and alignment, if ok continue, if not shut off vac and go to step #16. (critical)
23) If all is well, start filling with water. (DO NOT SHUT OFF VACUUM or you'll get wrinkles!!!)
24) Continue to fill until at least 1" of water covers the shallow end. (periodically check for wrinkles)
25) Note: you can get inside of the pool and work out wrinkles as they appear. (gently push and pull)
26) Shut off shop vac! (Finally!)
27) Continue filling pool until one foot of water covers shallow end. (inspect for wrinkles again)
28) If you have composite steps go to step #29, for built in vinyl steps go to step #32.
29) Carefully feel the liner and locate at least two holes for bottom gasket and retaining bar.
30) Punch out holes using an awl, then attach gasket and retainer bar via hardware screws.
31) Repeat steps #29 and #30 for both of the step area side bars. (populate ALL retainer bar holes!)
32) Install all remaining face plates and gaskets. (find at least two holes per item and punch out with awl)
33) Carefully cut out all liner material from gasketed areas. (steps if applicable, returns, skimmers, etc..)
34) Remove all duct taped seals. (return and feed lines, steps, etc..)
35) Fill to appropriate operational level.
36) Hook up filtration system and any accessories.
37) Add your start up chemicals.
38) Enjoy!!!
Required Tools and Supplies:
1) Duct tape
2) Shop vac
3) Soft bristled broom
4) Tape measure
5) Extension cord
6) Awl or punch
7) Screwdrivers
8) Razor knife
9) Sump pump
10) Flat shovel
11) Garden hose
12) Possibly five gallon pail
13) Possibly masonary trowl
14) Possibly pre-washed masonary sand and mortar mix
My Background in this Industry:
I was raised in a family who has had a long history in the Swimming Pool Industry. For example, my grandfather was Chief Engineer for Muskin Pools for years, (back when they started business in Wilkes-Barre Pennsylvania), and he eventually became the Chief Operations Manager. Subsequently, Muskin employed my grandmother, mother, uncles, and father for many years to follow. In fact, my father was one of the first on ground pool installers who traveled throughout the U.S.A. installing pools for Muskin Pool customers. I even remember when I was twelve years old, my cousin and I would help our fathers install pools locally in Northeast Pennsylvania!
At the age of sixteen I decided to install pools during my schools summer vacation. I ran my own installation crew for Olympic Pools. I enjoyed it and people were quite surprised as to the quality of work a bunch of kids did! Since that time I have installed pools for Prestige Pools, Northeast Pools, Quality Pools, Poseidon Pools, and naturally for myself.
Over the years I have learned how to Install and repair swimming pools the correct way, the best way, and the most cost effective way. None of which degrades from the other. However, over the years I have also witnessed shrewd salesmen giving false information to customers in order to profit. Additionally, I have seen incompetent installers perform shoddy work and take advantage of their customers for the same purpose. Therefore, I am writing this article so that people can perform these tasks for their selves, or at least have the proper information to know if their pool related project is being done correctly.
Enjoy your summer, and stay cool!
Email: Questions@BubbasPools.com
This article is provided to you by Daniel Osko of Bubbas Pools and More! See our website, bubbaspools.com for additional information, forums, how to guides, pictures, products and more.
Please help support my free information and technical support
Thanks to everyone!
Danny Osko
This Article has been viewed 34,834 times. (Not updated in real-time.)
More commentsI bought a house (repo) w/ a 20'x40'x10' pool.I'm told the liner is less than a year old.The previous owner threw fence poles at it so there are several 2" diameter holes in the liner, somewhere in the 6'-7' deep area. Even the concrete behind the liner has holes.I think he was mad.It's had 3' or so of water in it up until yesterday when I sump pumped out the frog pond that was developing.Anyway, I'd like to save this liner. It's still quite soft and flexible and though it's out of the track in several areas it seems repairable to me. But what do I know, this is my first pool.I had a pool guy out and he told me I needed to give him $3500 for a new liner.I have no money for a new liner and am really hoping I can save this one.I know I'll have to pull it down far enough to fix the concrete damage so it's smooth. I don't care if it looks patched as long as it holds water.I'd think with all the vulcanizing techniques out there that it'd be a pretty easy fix for the liner. Then smooth out the concrete, reset the lock and refill.Yes? No? Is it saveable or is the pool guy right and the liner is screwed.Hi Robin,Sounds to me that your liner can be saved. Go to my website and check out my free Help Center to find out how to do the job correctly.Hope this helps,DannyBubbas Pools and More!
I live in Upstate NY (Syracuse) so pool is opened in May and closed in late September. I had a new liner installed about 4 years ago. I notice an "indentation" in the floor of the shallow end. I am not sure how but it is like a small "pool" where dirt collects and if you run your foot over it it dips and you can feel the edges which feel sharp. ANy comments/thoughts on how this happened? And are there any future ramifications? The company that installed it is still in business so I could call them....also their is a dip in the top of the liner near the coupling in a different spot - kind of like it "fell" - it doesn't line up it dips down - should I contact them about that too?Hello,I need to know if this is an Above Ground or an Inground Pool? And also if it is a beaded liner?Thanks,DannyBubbas Pools and More!
what advice and issues must be considered in replacing existing plastic steps for an in ground vinyl pool. our vinyl liner is being replaced and installed by professional pool service, yet my husband will be replacing the 8' x 3'6" x 3'8" offset steps. looks like a big job to meHello,First you should try to install a stair of the the same type and dimensional face. This will make attaching the new unit to the wall much easier. If not you will have to use the new stair gaskets as a template to drill new holes and possibly cut out additional wall sections.In either case you will need a jack hammer to completely remove the old concrete in which the stairs are anchored in. You will need to pour a new concrete pad that is of at least a 2,000 LB Mix.Hope this helps,DannyBubbas Pools and More!(we sell liners and stairs!)
We have an inground pool that was installed two summers ago. So this is the beginning of the 3rd summer. We bought the house last summer. The liner has some indentations in it. It is not torn, just has the indents. Is this a problem? What causes this?Hello,Indentations could have been there since the installation, but I would hope not.They are most likely caused by a washout condition. A washout condition can be caused by a hole in the liner, excessive ground water seepage or poor drainage around the pool which allows water to travel to the pool base.Small indentations should pose minumal risk to your liner. Large indentations pose a risk of damage to the liner when vacuuming.Hope this has been of some help,DannyBubbas Pools and More!
Hi Dan hoping u can help, just 3 months ago had a new liner put in an in-ground L shaped pool. Out of two of those months the pool was closed for winter. Recently for three days we had allot of rain! Afterwards I noticed allot of wrinkles at bottom of pool! Also about 5 inches of rain water disappear in one day now down to the level where the pool was closed off! Call the professionals who put my new liner in 4 days ago and showed up today telling me to go threw my insurance because I need a new liner plus he said for the water to disappear means maybe a hole in the liner. I was so upset what can I do? Not quite 3 months old ! Should he not be responsible for this ? He was not there to put the liner in to supervise his workers! It doesn't make since! Could it not be a faulty liner?
hi i have a liner which is in good condition but has started to come away from the track in one corner should i empty the pool and put it back in or is there a way were i dont have to waste all that water
Hi, If you are still answering questions I have just had a new vynal liner professionaly replaced in my 16x32 inground pool. I see that there is an unsupported radius along the shallow end where the wall meets the floor. If I push on this area I can push (stretch) the liner in about 2 inches or so before it stops. The 2 vertical corners have much larger unsupported radiuses. The pool is still filling w/appox 1 foot on the sallow end now. Should I call the installer back? What can be or should be done? Thank You
I am having to replace my vinyl liner -15 years old, and pool water leakage. Do you recommend waiting till spring to put in the new liner? The pool will soon be empty. It is getting so late in the year I am worried the vinyl will not mold to the pool as it should since the weather is cooler. I am also worried about leaving such a large hole empty but covered. The old liner is wrinkling and i am afraid soon will come loose from the wall. What is your expertise advise?
I have had a problem with iron in the pool water all summer. After getting this corrected,I now have leaking pool water. The pool is almost completely drained and I am planning to replace the vinyl liner but would have like to do this in the spring. Is there any danger in leaving the old liner in an empty pool, covering it and replacing with the new liner in the spring? Is it too late in the year for the liner to mold correctly to the inground pool sides as need or will it be a better job in warmer weather? I am so concerned about this. I just do not know what to do. Please help.
Great info.
I plan to repair my inground fiberglass cracked steps.
near the cracks, and at any flexing area of the steps I plan to drill 2" holes and pack pea gravel into the steps to back fill them. I am convinced this is why the steps flex and crack.
is there a trick to this, getting enough gravel behind the steps? any help is appreicated.Hi Dave,
Your pool steps did not crack from the "lack of filler material" behind them. Steps sometimes crack over time due to:
1) Excessive weight or blunt force.
2) Excessive chemical usage combined with years of sunlight.
3) Your pool structure may have moved due to freeze and thaw which put undue stresses on the steps.
4) Ice Damage.
Any of the afore-mentioned or combination thereof can cause fiberglass steps to crack.
Typically, I groove the cracks and apply fiberglass. Then sand, seal and repaint.
Hope this helps,
Dan Osko
Bubbas Pools
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