Tips for above Ground Swimming Pool Liner Preparation and Installation!
Posted: Sunday, May 07, 2006
by Daniel Osko
Bubbas Pools
NEW! Updated to include overlap and beaded liners.
Do you think that only the pro's can do it? Think again. Although we recommend a professional installer, with the correct tools and care most anyone can install their liner. Just follow the guide below, and you decide. A little work can save you a lot of money!
These tips now apply to above ground overlap and beaded vinyl liners without hoppers (deep ends).
Preparation:
1) Drain all water from pool.
(you may use a sump pump, your filtration system or siphon hose)
2) Remove all ladders from pool liner area.
(and any other equipment that may obstruct liner area)
3) Remove all face plates and gaskets from inside pool area.
(i.e. thru-the-wall(s), return(s), lights, etc..)
4) Inspect all face plates, gaskets and hardware for cracks/rips and/or wear.
(replace as needed)
5) For overlap liners, remove seat clamps, pool ledges, top plates and top rail.
(basically the top end of pool)
For beaded liners, you should be able to skip this step.
6) Remove old liner.
(you can use a razor knife and cut into smaller pieces for easier removal)
7) Inspect pool base and cove for wash outs and eveness.
Repair A/G pools with a masonary sand. (for non-formed pool base)
Repair A/G pools with two parts sand to one part mortar. (for formed pool base)
8) Re-tape wall bolt seam with duct tape.
(remove old duct tape first)
9) Sweep entire pool area clean.
(must be free of pebbles, rocks, sharp edges and all debris!)
Installation:
1) Temporarily unroll your new liner in a sunny, debris free area.
(this will assist liner to stretch later on)
2) Seal the thru-the-wall skimmer area with cardboard.
(attach with duct tape on the outside of pool wall)
3) Seal the water return, lighting holes with duct tape.
(duct tape from outside of pool wall)
4) Insert 2' of shop vac hose thru the cardboarded skimmer area.
(in a downward orientation, towards the pool base)
(duct tape well, until sealed)
5) Inspect all duct taped areas. (these must be good seals)
6) Re-inspect pool base. (insure there is no debris, rocks, pebbles or rough areas!)
7) For overlap liners, attach two wooden clothes pins to each upright.
For beaded liners, step seven is not required.
8) Fold new liner in halves until it is about 2-3 feet wide and is full in length.
9) Place liner in pool area, retaining both ends and center.
(get some help! don't let the entire liner fall inside pool area!)
10) Carefully unfold liner in pool area.
(do not get inside pool, you can do this from outside of pool area)
11) For overlap liners, attach liner to pool wall using the clothes pins.
(pull liner about 6" over the wall and attach)
For beaded liners, simply snap the liner bead into liner receptor.
12) Evenly pull liner further over the wall, adjusting clothes pins as needed.
(to about 15")
For beaded liners, skip this step and go to step #13.
13) Gently brush and tap liner torwards the walls.
(this will visually assist you in the final liner setting)
14) Inspect and Adjust liner as needed.
(insure that the bottom seam is even all around the perimeter)
15) Now get some help!
Have your helpers stand around the pool perimeter to hold the wall.
(we don't want the wall to fall! This next step will happen fast!)
16) Hook up shop vac to vac hose and turn on.
(this will simulate water and suck all air out of liner area)
17) Release liner EVENLY as it tightens by releasing and attaching clothes pins.
(while doing step #18)
For beaded liners, skip this step and go to step #18.
18) Gently brush and tap liner around entire perimeter torwards the walls.
(this will remove all wrinkles)
19) Continue releasing and brooming the liner until it is seated and even!
Seating is complete when you are left with a 2" to 4" air gap between the liner and wall.
This measurement is taken at the juntion where the cove meets the wall.
Use a push broom to push on the liner in this area for your approximate air gap!
(if not, go to step #12)
For beaded liners continue brooming until the liner is even and concentric.
(if not, go to step #12)
20) Inspect liner for wrinkles and alignment, if ok continue.
(If not shut off vac and go to step#12, this is critical)
21) If all is well, start filling with water.
(DO NOT SHUT OFF VACUUM or you'll get wrinkles!!!)
22) Continue to fill until at least 1" of water covers the entire bottom of pool.
23) Shut off shop vac! (Finally!)
24) Reassemble seat clamps, pool ledges, top plates and top rail.
(while removing clothes pins)
For beaded liners, skip this step and go to step #25.
25) Continue filling pool until two feet of water covers the entire bottom of pool.
26) Remove all duct taped seals. (return and feed lines, steps, etc..)
27) Install all skimmers, returns, lights, etc..,
(find at least two holes per item and punch out with awl).
(This will help with alignment)
Now populate all screw holes, tighten evenly.
28) Carefully cut out all liner material from gasketed areas.
(returns, skimmers, lights, etc..)
29) Hook up filtration system and any accessories.
30) Fill to appropriate operational level.
31) Add your start up chemicals.
32) Enjoy!!!
Required Tools and Supplies:
1) Duct tape
2) Shop vac
3) Soft bristled push broom
4) Tape measure
5) Extension cord
6) Awl or punch
7) Screwdrivers
8) Razor knife
9) Sump pump
10) Wooden spring-loaded clothes pins
11) Garden hose
12) Possibly five gallon pail
13) Possibly landscaping rake
14) Possibly pre-washed masonary sand
15) Possibly flat shovel
16) Possible mortar mix
My Background in this Industry:
I was raised in a family who has had a long history in the Swimming Pool Industry. For example, my grandfather was Chief Engineer for Muskin Pools for years, (back when they started business in Wilkes-Barre Pennsylvania), and he eventually became the Chief Operations Manager. Subsequently, Muskin employed my grandmother, mother, uncles, and father for many years to follow. In fact, my father was one of the first on ground pool installers who traveled throughout the U.S.A. installing pools for Muskin Pool customers. I even remember when I was twelve years old, my cousin and I would help our fathers install pools locally in Northeast Pennsylvania!
At the age of sixteen I decided to install pools during my schools summer vacation. I ran my own installation crew for Olympic Pools. I enjoyed it and people were quite surprised as to the quality of work a bunch of kids did! Since that time I have installed pools for Prestige Pools, Northeast Pools, Quality Pools, Poseidon Pools, and naturally for myself.
Over the years I have learned how to Install and repair swimming pools the correct way, the best way, and the most cost effective way. None of which degrades from the other. However, over the years I have also witnessed shrewd salesmen giving false information to customers in order to profit. Additionally, I have seen incompetent installers perform shoddy work and take advantage of their customers for the same purpose. Therefore, I am writing this article so that people can perform these tasks for their selves, or at least have the proper information to know if their pool related project is being done correctly.
Enjoy your summer, and stay cool!
Email: Questions@BubbasPools.com
This article is provided to you by Daniel Osko of Bubbas Pools and More! See our website, bubbaspools.com for additional information, forums, how to guides, pictures, products and more.
Please help support my free information and technical support
Thanks to everyone!
Danny Osko
This Article has been viewed 195,436 times. (Not updated in real-time.)
More commentsThanks Danny for all the shared tips. I have a question regarding installation of a 18x33 above ground overlap pool liner. I have a bottom center return drain. When is the best time to cut out and install the seal and plate?Hello Mark,Please read my tip below;Bottom Drain(s) Installation Tip
Before installing a center bottom drain... please read the following:
”Some news for those of you that have Bottom Drains... The NSPA has set regulations that state: All new swimming pools and pools requiring a liner replacement must have either two (2) Bottom Drains or none. This means that every new pool must have two (2) drains or none and all replacement liners that have one Bottom Drain must either eliminate the single drain or add an additional drain. The purpose of this is simple... Bottom drains pose a life threatening danger for all swimmers due to the enormous suction that they can produce. By eliminating or adding an additional drain this eliminates this danger. Most States have also adopted this into law. So, even if your state may not require this yet... be safe, and follow the ruling!”
1) Prior to liner installation... Glue or temporarily duct tape the first gasket to the bottom drain assembly.2) Next, follow my liner installation directions.
3) Next, wait until the liner is installed and you have at least one foot of water covering the drain area.
4) Next, using a #1 Phillips screwdriver, locate the main drain attachment plate holes by feeling the liner and use the driver to punch thru. DO NOT DRILL.
5) Depending on the type of main drain you have, you should be able to attach the main drain gasket and retaining ring with screws.
6) Then cut out the inside perimeter with a SHARP razor knife… be careful.
7) Then complete the assembly.
For Sanded Bottom Pools… To prevent footmarks, you should always roll your sand in at least three directions to pack it. Also, wear a pair of flat bottom sandals when entering the pool and walk lightly!
If your drain is in a deep end, keep the shop vac running until the ENTIRE bottom is covered.Hope this helps,DannyBubbas Pools and More!
I bought a used Doughboy 21x41 oval pool. I would like to install it in the ground as much as possible(I will leave out the required 6"-1'). The pool walls are 48". I would like the water in my pool to go up to a true 48", but realize the water cannot go up to the top. Do I need an expandable liner to obtain 48" of water or can I purchase a regular overlap liner made for 54" pool walls and use that? Thanks for the info. Love this site!Hi Brett,A regular/standard liner will accomodate pools to 52" deep, so your good.Hope this helps,Dan OskoBubbas Pools and More!
I am a new pool owner and have never owned one before. I bought a house with an above ground pool installed in the back yard. It had not been maintained in several years and was full of green nasty water. To make a long story short, after several failed attempts at cleaning the pool and several hundreds of dollars in chemicals, the pool liner developed a hole and all the water drained out. I successfully patched the hole and began refilling the pool, however after the water was about 1.5 feet deep, the liner pulled away from one side of the pool, and the aluminum sides have became dented and buckled under the pressure. So my question is, if I invest in a new liner for the pool, can the dented and buckled aluminum sides be repaired? Or should I just disassemble the pool all together and give up?Hi Brett,You can repair the pool wall with a helper, a rubber mallet and a piece of lumber. Using a rubber mallet, hit the pertruding creases while your helper holds a piece of lumber on the opposite side of the pool wall. You should be able to pound out the dents and creases until they are hardly noticeable. Buy a NEW Liner, yours probably shrunk.Hope this helps,DannyBubbas Pools and MoreAshley, PA
I have a few questions, im replacing a liner do to holes, should the sand be dry before putting in the new liner? and the track that holds the walls of the pool that is on the ground looks bad should i replace it?
ForeclosedI am buying a foreclosure with and inground pool with a liner that has been torn away from the walls for some time now. I am planning to replace it myself. My concern is the bottom of the pool, the walls are metal and seem to be fine other then needing the seems duct taped. It has a sand mixed bottom that needs to be re-leveled and smoothed. I was wanting to use a sand mortor mix to try and get it as smooth as possible and have an easier surface to install the new liner. What to you recommend for the best quickrete mix or mortor to buy to smooth out the bottom of the pool ? Thanks for any help.
I have an above ground pool with a centre drain. My kids have punctured the liner with a small 2 inch hole. What is the best way to repair this with the water still in the pool or by draining it. I would like to know the type of Glue to use and the type of vinyl. Thanks for you help.Ron from CanadaHi Ron,Do not drain your water or your Liner will probably shrink and become unusable!Use PoolMaster 4oz Can of Vinyl Adhesive Manufacturer No: 30277and a piece of Vinyl Liner.
Hole in Floor of Pool Liner1) Using clear vinyl patch material or a piece of liner, cut a patch, which is at least two inches larger than the hole.
2) Round the corners of the patch. This will help the patch from curling up.
3) Evenly apply Pool Glue to the entire patch. (The type that comes in a metal can).
4) Evenly press patch to the waterside of the liner and hold for at least 5 minutes or until the patch is firmly adhered to the pool liner.
5) Weigh patch down to liner using a rubber mat and something heavy. Let the weight(s) sit for an hour.
6) Remove mat and weight(s) and inspect patch for curling. Re-glue corners if necessary.Hope this Helps,Dan OskoBubbas Pools
Hi Dan,I have a question and can find a real answer to it and thought you maybe able to help. I have a 10 year old above ground pool which seems to be in fairly good shape yet, but I need a new liner my concern is if I have someone come out to install the liner how do I know prior to that if the walls of my pool inside are still in good shape? I don't want to spend the money to replace the liner if the walls are bad from the inside out. Is there anyway of telling what shape my pool is really in from inside out?Hello Tammy,Most pool walls can be repaired.From the outside of the pool:1) Look for Pin holes and Rust or Oxidation spots.2) Expose the Pools Bottom Rail and look for Rust or Oxidation spots along the Rail area.3)Since you need a new liner, and you need to drain the pool..., do so and pull back the liner to check the wall more thoroughly.If you find any of the above, read below:Pool Wall Hole RepairIf your pool wall is metal, it rusted. If your pool wall is aluminum, it
oxidized. In either case, the most common repairs methods are as follows:
1. Pin Holes: Sand inside area of wall. Paint area with rustolium. Cover area with duct tape.
2. Dime Size Holes: Sand inside area of wall. Paint area with rustolium. Cut
a patch made of similar wall material. Attach patch with duct tape.
3. Baseball Size Holes: Sand inside area of wall. Paint area with rustolium. Cut a patch made of similar wall material. Attach patch using rivets or nuts and bolts. Cover area with duct tape.
4. Large Holes and/or Large Area Rot/Oxidation: Add a new section of similar
wall material. The new piece should fit from DEAD CENTER of one upright to DEAD CENTER of the next upright. Remove corresponding uprights. Temporarily, on the inside of pool, clamp the new wall section over the old section of wall. Make certain the new section is seated into the lower wall track/ bottom rail. Create two bolt lines by drilling a vertical series of 5/16" holes at 2" spacing thru the old wall and the new section. Attach new section by using 1/4-20 x 1" LG Pan Head bolts, washers and nuts, (washers and nuts face outward away from pool). Paint area with rustolium. Cover bolt lines with duct tape and re-attach uprights.
NOTE: If you are attempting these repairs, and DO NOT want to buy a new
liner. Be CERTAIN that you DO NOT completely drain the pool.., your liner
will probably shrink and you'll need a new one. All of the aforementioned
repairs can be done by draining some of the water and pulling back the liner
in the affected area(s). Even a wall section can be replaced if extreme
care is taken.
NOTE: Replacement of the entire wall is not typically cost effective. It
basically evolves disassembly of the entire pool structure, a complete new
installation and a new liner.
Hope this helps,
Danny
Bubbas Pools and More!Ashley, PA
Great site and information. Wish I had found it sooner! Two questions: 1) How long can you leave a liner hung without water before it shrinks and becomes unusable? 2) Can the return inlet be safely installed in a new liner if the water level is above the opening? Thanks, Bucky in PA
We've installed a 18x39 pool w/deefp end (above ground) the two struts on deep end (set in concrete at base) lifted and buckled the wall. How do we fix? There may have been a failure of the sand in the deep end, or the liner was too tight. Do we drain down to ground level first then loosen, straighten or replace the struts and pool wall?
Cathy U in WA
Ok we really messed up I think! We put in a new liner and cut out the hole for the skimmer THEN started adding water. Now the liner has pulled too far away from the skimmer, the hole ain't lining up, what do we do? Can we patch that big hole and relocate the skimmer later? Please help ASAP
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